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In the mirror, I can see myself in huge gilded pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Kids play in a stone basin imitating sea nymphs, while in the next room sits a talking pea in a showcase, alongside a imposing stack of cushions. It embodies the universe of the beloved author (1805-1875), one of the 1800s highly cherished authors. I’m in the city of Odense, located on Funen in the south of the Danish kingdom, to explore the author's lasting influence in his birthplace many decades after his demise, and to find a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s museum dedicated to the writer, including his first home. An expert states that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was explored, but Thumbelina were absent. For tourists who travel to this place seeking fairytale wonder, it was somewhat disappointing.

The renovation of downtown Odense, redirecting a primary street, created the chance to reconsider how the local celebrity could be honored. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded Japanese firm the Kengo Kuma team the commission, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the structure. The unique wood-paneled museum with connected spiralling spaces opened to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we don’t talk about the author, but we talk like him: with wit, sarcasm and outlook,” says the curator. The landscape design embrace this concept: “It’s a garden for explorers and for large beings, it’s designed to give you a sense of smallness,” he says, an objective achieved by thoughtful gardening, manipulating elevation, scale and multiple meandering routes in a surprisingly compact space.

Andersen's Impact

The author penned two and a half memoirs and frequently provided conflicting accounts. The exhibition adopts this philosophy to heart; typically the views of his acquaintances or snippets of letters are shown to subtly challenge the his narrative of incidents. “Andersen is the narrator, but he’s not reliable,” notes the curator. The outcome is a fascinating rapid journey of the author's biography and art, thinking patterns and most popular narratives. It’s provocative and whimsical, for adults and children, with a additional basement imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Visiting the Town

In the actual city, the modest urban center of Odense is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and old wooden houses finished in vibrant hues. The author's presence is all around: the road indicators feature the author with his signature top hat, brass footprints provide a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a art walk too. Each summer this focus culminates with the yearly Andersen celebration, which honors the author’s legacy through visual arts, performance, theatre and musical performances.

Recently, the multi-day festival had hundreds of events, many were free. During my time in the city, I meet artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I experience feminist spoken-word pieces and witness an incredible evening show including graceful performers coming down from the city building and suspended from a mechanical arm. Upcoming events in the coming months are presentations, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the oral history past the author, the city’s regular enchantment celebration.

Every excellent enchanted locations need a palace, and Fyn boasts 123 castles and manor houses across the island

Pedaling Through History

Like most of Denmark, bicycles are the best way to get about in this town and a “cycling highway” curves through the urban core. Starting at Hotel Odeon, I pedal to the free port-side aquatic facility, then into the countryside for a circuit around the nearby islet, a small island linked by a road to the primary land. Town dwellers picnic here after work, or appreciate a tranquil moment angling, paddleboarding or taking a dip.

Back in town, I visit the themed restaurant, where the culinary offerings is derived from author-inspired concepts and tales. The verse the national ode appears during my meal, and manager Nils Palmqvist reads extracts, presented in English, as he presents each course. Such encounters frequent in my days in the city, the local residents love a yarn and it appears sharing tales is continuously offered here.

Castle Explorations

All good magical places require a castle, and the island boasts over a hundred manors and estates throughout the region. Traveling briefly from Odense, I visit the historic fortress, the continent's most intact Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are available for tours, Egeskov is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his wife, the princess. I ponder if she would notice a small legume through a pile of {mattresses